All,
Not sure if I'm missing the obvious, but haven't been able to find much info on these other than Lone Wolf Paintball's YouTube video. These seem really intriguing.
Simon, can you divulge?
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All,
Not sure if I'm missing the obvious, but haven't been able to find much info on these other than Lone Wolf Paintball's YouTube video. These seem really intriguing.
Simon, can you divulge?
Anyone?
I am patiently waiting as well. Cant wait to get rid of this choppy trigger.
SIMON TAKE MY MONEY PLEASE!!!
Waiting for small fine tuning of some tolerances and then our turn at the molding company. The hard part about being a small company ordering small quantities of items is that we wait our turn and often that gets pushed back when more profitable items for them take precedent.
Depending on what gun and frame you need it for we do have some pre-production units available. We are out of the WGP height 3-way version, but I may have some for Resurrections.
Email us at sales@inceptiondesigns.com and we can sort one out for you. :)
We aren't openly advertising them right now as stock is low and we are waiting for a decent run before we start pushing them but you can get the Empire one here https://www.inceptiondesigns.com/Pro...tCode=IFP-1039 :)
Order placed. Cant wait to get rid of this choppy trigger.
Thanks for creating new products.
Simon,
Can you talk about how the NOS plate compares in feel, weight, and length of pull vs. your traditional plates?
Thanks very kindly!
I installed the new plate in a ressy frame last week. Got to play today at the local field. All the choppy feel is now gone. In my setup I had to run the lug on the hammer deeper than I would like but it was the only way I could get it to reset consistently. My hammer now falls about mid trigger pull. Overall I am mostly happy. I have the inception hammer, springs, valve, and now trigger plate. The only thing left is the sear. I am not really sure if that will change any of the geometry of the hammer release or not. For sure this is nice and smooth now.
I purchased the NOS kit. I put in the stiffest return spring and the stiffest sear spring. It is quite smooth with no binding at all. I played with a few combinations but I always got hammer skip. I had to go deeper with the lug to get it to reset consistently. It seems ok now but now I am questioning if the PO of this ressy messed with the sear. There are too many home airsmiths in the wold.
Aside from the aesthetic differences in pull feel, would you go so far as to say that, in terms of actual ROF, the trigger is now faster, or about the same?
ROF? Not really what I was after. I would think it should be a little better but I am much faster with a hinge when it comes down to it. I was after making this feel more like a traditional cocker. The stock ressy pull just feels weird to me.
update: Put another case and 1/2 through it today. Finally got this where I want it timing wise. I would say it is a keeper as far as upgrade goes.
Good to know, thanks!
So how did you end up setting it up in terms of timing?
On my ressy I had to set the hammer drop to about 1/2 way into the trigger pull to get it to reset reliably. Not my ideal position. I prefer it to to be at the very beginning (this is how I set my regular cockers). I am not convinced the PO didnt mess with the sear doing some kind of home trigger job. Gonna order a sear in the future from Simon.
Got to run a bone stock ressy yesterday and I took 5 shots and put it back on the bench (forgot how much I hated it), and handed mine to the owner. I let him shoot it and his reaction was immediate. "that feels like a completely different gun" "Can you do that to mine".
My question to Simon....Why delrin.. why not metal? I am sure it will outlast the weekend warrior player durability wise... just curious.
I'm guessing that delrin was chosen owing to weight/mass, cost, and the fact that, with a roller sear, durability shouldn't be much issue.
After doing some digging I suspect the sear reset issue you are having may be related to the fact that the new plate uses a timing rod hole instead of the original slot.
An old article of Ravi's dealt mentioned a similar situation, with a similar result, owing to the fact that a hole will change the timing vs. a slot.
May not be the same issue in your case, but your experience sounded eerily like his, and it might be interesting to experiment with a modified delrin plate that has been slotted, to see if the problem goes away.
Any further details on this. Just got one for my ID'd Ressy and am going to be dropping it in this weekend.
BTW, maybe I'm missing this but what do NOS (new old stock??) and SAS stand for and what are the differences? I'm not seeing it on the site.
If I had to guess...New old school and short and snappy? Referring to the end result of the plates.
It's this.
The profile of the Short and Snappy (SAS) is identical to the standard Ressie-style plates, i.e., the change-angle hump to ensure full pull, but is different in that it has a timing rod hole vice slot as the Ressies have.
The New Old School has the single angle old-style plate, but also has just the hole.
Both of these will permit a shorter throw (especially with the new frame), but as noted, may come with certain side effects depending on what other parts are used in conjunction.
I'm going to be messing around with a metal Ressie plate to work through a hunch about a different profile and will report back, probably in a dedicated thread.
Definitely let us know how yours works out for you.