Wait a minute... I'd suppose bolt switch orings can't really be floating style either due to the leak over. Right?
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Wait a minute... I'd suppose bolt switch orings can't really be floating style either due to the leak over. Right?
Last time I plan on revisiting this, but I'm still having issues with a bolt switch oring. Should I just use a normal parker oring spec and accept the high friction or is there some general guideline you guys can recommend for these? Geez oring fitment is a PITA.
Don't use the Parker or ANSI spec. Make it looser. I have found that you can get a good seal (with some pressure, say 50 psi+) on a setup that actually feels like it won't seal. The o-ring generally squishes to fit even then. I can go look on my CAD, but we played a round with that a bit.Quote:
Last time I plan on revisiting this, but I'm still having issues with a bolt switch oring. Should I just use a normal parker oring spec and accept the high friction or is there some general guideline you guys can recommend for these? Geez oring fitment is a PITA.
For the width I went with about a .079" (2mm) or so gap, with .073 being the tightest I would go.
But I am not the expert here - and there is a decent range you can play with, so there is no hard answer. You might have to play with it a bit to get what you want.
What size o-ring is it?
-017 right now, but may need to step down to a metric
I don't have any sliding O-rings that big....
If you switch to metric, I wouldn't drop below a 1.5mm. Smaller than that and you are likely to roll and cut the o-ring. That is the one big fail of the Vanguard Demon, the 23x1mm O-rings didn't handle the action more than 10,000 cycles.
It's a bolt switch oring on a spool marker. The last one I did for DocWho was no bueno.