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Thread: New e frame for autocockers

  1. #171
    Cool beans.
    Its very difficult to get those pins out, well, at least with one hand lol.

    Does the DNA board have a classic mode?
    Also if we still go with an LCD frame (size) could we fit 9 volts?

    Isn't the caveat of race frames and angels not holding charges after several years?

  2. #172
    Insider new ion?'s Avatar
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    Well, could always go the Torque route and go with the RCR123 (can't remember the number) battery...

  3. #173
    Quote Originally Posted by pbjosh View Post
    To low of an LPR setting? I could see that... at least affecting the dwell.

    The throw on this is long, most likely longer then a Centerflag's throw. It should be no different then actually pulling the trigger. As if you replaced the trigger on a slider with a pneumatic ram.
    no to high of pressure you can also have problems. Higher pressure increases drag from the 3 way orings. can cause the 3 way to "stick". it is another equation in the cocker timing.. Want a faster acting gun you could increase the LPR pressure. I've only had to deal with it a few times for very specific customers.. but it's something that you have to think about.

  4. #174
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    no to high of pressure you can also have problems. Higher pressure increases drag from the 3 way orings. can cause the 3 way to "stick". it is another equation in the cocker timing.. Want a faster acting gun you could increase the LPR pressure. I've only had to deal with it a few times for very specific customers.. but it's something that you have to think about.
    Yeah, I caught myself on that after the post. I can see that with the Centerflag, and realized it afterwards.

    I am going over piston sizes and options to make this work, and I think just a shade over .25" would be fine. That is .05" are area, so with 70psi it would have 3.5lbs or so of force.

    A -008 would be a 5/16" od, and about 5.5lbs at a bit over 70psi.

    Should be enough to deal with sticky o-rings. Smaller diameter is faster...

    I will see what fits.

  5. #175
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    Well, could always go the Torque route and go with the RCR123 (can't remember the number) battery...
    Right number. RCR123 is the rechargeable one.

    What we are doing is upping the voltage, then regulating it down, since the output is 3.7. That allows us to also run a CR123 which has higher mAh, but slightly lower voltage, and should be at any photo center at any store around.

    I don't know if the DNA will do that.

  6. #176
    Insider new ion?'s Avatar
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    Over-Volting the battery? some other Voodoo? As an EE student I'm really curious lol

  7. #177
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    We just change the voltage, bump it up by a factor, not sure the ratio, then regulate it, followed by a healthy capacitor to take the bumps.

    I have a ICE background, but most of it is self or job specific taught. Still planned the wiring for a powerplant, but not for small stuff like boards. 4160VAC pump and switchrack design is more my area.

  8. #178
    Insider new ion?'s Avatar
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    I wish I knew how you are changing the voltage of the battery... rest of it makes sense to me though!

  9. #179
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    We are not changing anything in the battery.

    We take the output voltage, bump it up, say double (dropping the amps by half) to, say, 7.4v. Then regulated down to 5v for the board and 'noid.

    Then when we put in the 3.0v battery in (the CR123) it outputs 6v, which gets regulated down to 5v again.

  10. #180
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    Okay, NOW I follow. I figured it was something like this, but wasn't quite sure. Thank you for explaining! :blush:

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