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Insider
That makes lots of sense actually. So that lever then lifts another? It just seems the sear wouldn't catch the hammer in the right direction without another lever.
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Insider
Finally found a good illustration...
![](http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo288/kheldarq/image_zpsa1d40872.png)
And dimensions of the race frame...
![](http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo288/kheldarq/Millingpattern_zps998dc304.jpg)
That were posted in this PBN thread...
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3964351
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The problems Ive had with race frames has mainly been quality control or parts just not working. I'm no insider but it seemed to me that the ones made by race gun tended to do better than those by ans.
Ill edit this with a pros and cons list after work.
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I have a ton of experience with the Raceframe. Feel free to ask me anything. I did quite a bit of the initial timing and tech documents on it also.
The roller sear 'freekick' was better replaced with an external screw. The freekick was just adjusting the position of the roller bearing on the sear, so that the tiny little normal solenoid they had in there was easily able to trip it. The concept was great really - have the sear push down on the roller bearing and set the roller bearing to stop almost where it would trip over and let the sear off. The only problem was that was a very small margin, just couple degrees, and getting it perfect took time. The original freekick was a small shim placed in there, and you had to tear the grip apart to test it. hence the screw adjustment.
I do have two options for the cocker frame based on that experience, based off a design I had for a Blazer pneumatic/electric grip. One a quite simple pneumatically driven version, the other driven by a small motor. They both use the same basic concept, an intergrated sled that activates the sear and 3-way.
The idea was to keep it simple for transfer to a mech gun and back, and it would make for a crazy fast Blazer. ![Smile](images/smilies/smile.png)
Just using a tiny geared motor to trip the sear and having a separate solenoidvalve up front is an option also - the motor would be kind of a pain to source, but after that an optical or mechanical switch on the toothed output of the motor and you have a simple cheap sear setup that coule be very smallish.
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Insider
Part of me thinks that because the biggest issue with most e-cocker frames was the sear solenoid system (either in reliability or power consumption) that we should just run a "t" in the LPR to 3 way feed and then a small vertical ram and a small solenoid to activate it. Air force down, and spring up.
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I was thinking of the same T fitting.
Instead of the vertical ram though I was thinking of running a 'sled' that would have the 3-way groove and sear trip in it along the top of the grip. A small short throw piston would run it, and the groove for the 3-way would be longer to allow for the timing. 3/8" of travel, using a bespoke piston (just a round shaft with an o-ring, lined up in the back of the grip, air running to it, spring return) to trip it would leave tons of room in the frame for the 'noid and board/battery. Or a MSV-2 setup.
Either way the timing would work like the original slider frame, so it should be a no brainer. We could put a roller bearing in there also, with a drop sear. It would be so stupid simple to make, it almost is cheating.
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Insider
I like the concept. So you would keep a normal sear and in effect just be pnuematically activating the trigger plate.... Keep the original 3-way and everything so it's easy to swap back to a normal gun.
A pneumatic version of the Centreflag uprising frame... I like it.
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A quick thought if we want to go this way:
It wouldn't be hard for us (under J4 or not) to knock out a cheap kit that has a frame, the sled and such all as an un-annoed 'kit' and the player supplies the rest, with a planned 3D printed backer for alignment inside the frame that people pick up or modify to use different boards and batteries. We could do it as a grip to fit conventional cockers and one to fit the resurrection frame also.
We could get it out for cheap if all it is comprises of a grip, sled, and the related parts. Stupid cheap really. I will talk to the boys and see what we can do.
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Insider
I'm looking at the geometry on one of my frames, and unless that image is angled as to give a perception that everything is more in line, it doesn't seem quite right.
The part of the trigger plate that the sear moves on is way lower than the 3 way slot. Also the back of the sear where it catches the lug is very far back and close to the back strap of the frame such that it would make it tough to fit a ram and hose behind it.
I still like the idea of just pneumatically operating a trigger plate but I don't see it being quite that simple.
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