Kryptonite Axe Grip

[skibbo]

That's where I found the smaller tube, 1" OD, 5/8" ID. Honestly, using a nummech type upper grip will probably be the best option to keep the tube to a reasonable diameter. Most regs are about 1" anyways, so that's what people are used to.

Good to hear on countersinking CF tubes, I don't have any experience with it.

I found some pretty nice carbon tubes here: http://www.carbonfibertubeshop.com/large%20tubing.html To answer your question, yes it can be countersunk as well if you search for it RC car guys do it commonly.

Since it'd be a lot more cost prohibitive to design a tube then I think off the shelf is best. I found that I needed a MIN ID of 1.125" and that leaves almost no room for battery variation. To be safe, I suggest we design around a 1.37" OD tube with a 1.25" ID. The way I see it the tube would be notched for the dovetail joint (and all the way down to the bottom button and would slide up from the bottom. Then the bottom cap could be knurled to untwist from the aluminum sub-structure by hand, allow the tube to slide down and the battery to be replaced easily. It wouldn't look as good, but it would be a heck of a lot more functional and much better price if we can simplify the substructure. The board has to mount to something.

[skibbo]

Rough draft doesn't look too bad:

[blueshifty]

Won't work as drawn if this is for the stock board. The board has to sit vertically at about .2" from the flat face of the trigger guard for the lower to upper board interface pins to align correctly. The clearance hole in the very top doesn't have to be as big as stock either because it is only there to allow the board to be installed into the foregrip from the top. With the tube-style cover it can be installed from the bottom (this is just more area for junk to get down on the board). I have actually toyed with a face seal around the pins to help seal the lower board a little better, but there's still the button and LED areas for water to get in.

[skibbo]

It would totally work with the stock board. It would need a "daughter board" to bridge between the main board and the eye board (exactly like the nummech one) though. I think this style would be much nicer than what you're thinking, since the transition just looks too strange without a forward sweep as well.

Won't work as drawn if this is for the stock board. The board has to sit vertically at about .2" from the flat face of the trigger guard for the lower to upper board interface pins to align correctly. The clearance hole in the very top doesn't have to be as big as stock either because it is only there to allow the board to be installed into the foregrip from the top. With the tube-style cover it can be installed from the bottom (this is just more area for junk to get down on the board). I have actually toyed with a face seal around the pins to help seal the lower board a little better, but there's still the button and LED areas for water to get in.

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It would totally work with the stock board. It would need a "daughter board" to bridge between the main board and the eye board (exactly like the nummech one) though. I think this style would be much nicer than what you're thinking, since the transition just looks too strange without a forward sweep as well.

Won't work as drawn if this is for the stock board. The board has to sit vertically at about .2" from the flat face of the trigger guard for the lower to upper board interface pins to align correctly. The clearance hole in the very top doesn't have to be as big as stock either because it is only there to allow the board to be installed into the foregrip from the top. With the tube-style cover it can be installed from the bottom (this is just more area for junk to get down on the board). I have actually toyed with a face seal around the pins to help seal the lower board a little better, but there's still the button and LED areas for water to get in.

[aggroman]

Design looks great so far! Would it be possible to make it mount in the same place as the stock foregrip? I would like to see the top piece mount the same way but have the dovetail built into the foregrip more so that it doesnt stick out from the frame so much. Also how/where does the battery fit and stay in place?

[skibbo]

It'd be possible, I just have been trying to avoid doing it that way, since I don't find it the most aesthetically pleasing. Battery would fit in the grip itself, would be held in place by the bottom cap and screw, similar setup to the DW foregrips. Board would be held in the same way.

Design looks great so far! Would it be possible to make it mount in the same place as the stock foregrip? I would like to see the top piece mount the same way but have the dovetail built into the foregrip more so that it doesnt stick out from the frame so much. Also how/where does the battery fit and stay in place?

[aggroman]

To each their own I guess. I prefer it connected to the frame aesthetically. I just thought it would be easiest to mount it the same as stock to cut down on costs for a daughter board and keep it simple.

[skibbo]

I'll draw it up soon and post up a picture. Just seems like it'd be too squished to me, but the regular Axe grip looks fine to me and it's the same way. I'm just weird.

To each their own I guess. I prefer it connected to the frame aesthetically. I just thought it would be easiest to mount it the same as stock to cut down on costs for a daughter board and keep it simple.