Reply With Quotenice. i don't ever think i will use one(i care not for low profile, i just don't want separate pods for regular and pump play. so nothing against Simon and his dedication), but this is a great install post for anyone and everyone.
Some people have asked how hard it is to assemble the Pico Handmolded kits. Put this together today, does it make sense? Did I forget anything?
Things you will need to assemble your new Inception Designs Pico handmolded hopper:
- Halo, Halo Too, B2, Magna, Scion, etc. donor hopper
- Inception Designs Pico Shell kit
- Small Phillips screwdriver
- Needlenose pliers
- Small bit of sandpaper/Small file (nail file will work)
- Hacksaw/heavy duty side cutters/etc. (something to cut one of the bolts down to length)
Optional:
- Drill & 7/64 bit
THESE INSTRUCTIONS USE A HALO TOO HOPPER/BOARD AS THE DONOR. OTHERS MAY VARY SLIGHTLY.
When you dissassemble your Halo this is what you will have. Everything on the right of the picture will be transfered over to the Pico shell. NOTE: There is one long screw missing from this picture, but more on that in a minute.
This is what you need to keep for the conversion.
And here is the Pico shells, battery door and rip drive wheel.
Let's start by installing the rip drive wheel on the drive shaft. The needlenose pliers work well to install the little spring clip on the shaft. Don't try to reuse your Halo wheel since the Pico will not have enough clearance for it! It is easier to install it now, and it also seems to help hold the board where it needs to be as we assemble the rest.
Next we will plug the board into the harness. The pins on the board need to be bent to about 30* The easiest way is to plug in the harness and grasping the connector GENTLY push the pins over. You will want to take your time and move them a little then try it and see if there is enough clearance. Don't over bend the pins as they can break!
Now is a great time to add some tape to keep the wires under control. On this set of internals the battery harness was incredibly long and needed to get secured out of the way.
OPTIONAL STEP! We've found that if you can run a 7/64th drill bit through all the bolt mounting holes in both Left and Right side shells it will ease assembly. If you can't/don't assembly will be the same you will just have to thread the bolts in much further.
Ok, slide the internals into the Right side shell. The reason is the capacitor on the board (the silver can that the screwdriver is pointing towards) will catch if you try and do it the other way. Now is a good time to check for clearance around all the wires and make sure that there is room for the rip drive wheel. If there isn't, a very light sanding/filing on the tips of the wheel is usually all it needs.
Install the Left side shell being careful of the battery wires. Don't bother installing the battery door yet.
Thead the nuts onto one of the long bolts and install them in the Left side shell
Install the bolts through the Right side shell in this order. NOTE: #7 bolt is going to need to be cut down from one of the longer ones. SEE BELOW!
Here is the long bolt cut to 3/4" (this doesn't have to be exactly 3/4" but you don't want it much shorter!).
Install batteries and do a test!
Mounted! Top it off with the Lid/Speedfeed of your choice and get out and play!
Last edited by Pinnacle Dave; 01-15-2014 at 11:58 PM.
nice. i don't ever think i will use one(i care not for low profile, i just don't want separate pods for regular and pump play. so nothing against Simon and his dedication), but this is a great install post for anyone and everyone.
Awesome instruction series!
The only thing that might be missing is if someone chooses to use the original lid. They need to put that in before the shells come together. Sometimes the pin hole is a little tight and that may mean it needs drilling or opening up. I usually do it by taking the original pin in a pair of pliers, heating it up, and pushing it into the hole just as far as needed.
Just an FYI. the triangular boss was added the original design to help keep the softer material of the hand molded shells together under the board. It was added just a little high and hence why the fingers sometimes need a little trimming on the rip drive wheel
Ah yes, the original lid... I'll add that in, thanks!
when I installed the lid I had to cut the pin down alot. I just cut 1/4" off the end at a time until it fit.
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