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Thread: Empire Resurrection body swap to an Inception FLE body

  1. #1

    Empire Resurrection body swap to an Inception FLE body

    With the release of our new body kits for the Empire Resurrection and Empire Sniper I thought I would make a thread to show how simple it really is to do a body swap.

    I made it very picture intensive to help explain it all, but it's actually very straight forward.

    With the Resurrection you shouldn't even need to time the gun afterwards. It should work just as well after you finish as when you started

    First, here's your Resurrection and your new body kit.

    Remove the bolt from the gun.

    Take off the lever from the feedneck completely.

    Then take out the bottom clamping screw and put it into the threaded hole from the other side. Put a dime or a washer in the gap and gently tighten the screw against it just enough to open up the feedneck and release it from the body.

    Then place it over the feedneck stub on the new body and back out the screw completely. Put the screw back in from the correct side and tighten down with the feedneck aligned correctly along the body.

    Next remove the eye covers from the original gun.

    Take out the ball detents and put them into the new body. Then replace the eye covers. Do one side at a time as you remove it from the old gun install it onto the new body.

    Now remove the grip frame. Rear screw is recessed into the frame.

    To access the front frame screw you need to pull the trigger back and out of the way.

    Next disconnect the macro line.

    Then move the frame down and to the side slightly so you can disconnect the 3-way rod.

    Slide the 3-way spool out of the 3-way body and put it to the side somewhere where it won't get dirty.

    Now we are going to remove the front block all in one go. As you start to unscrew the front block screw with a long allen key you will see it come out of the front block, you MUST move the front block up with the screw to avoid damaging the pneumatics.

    Bring the bolt sled (mid block) out to the side and separate the body from the front block. Be careful to make sure the sled doesn't rotate around the pump rod. Put it to the side somewhere safe.

    Next we are going to remove the IVG. Take a look at how far in it is (maybe even take a photo with your phone) and count how many turns out it takes to remove it (write it down!) this way you can put it back in the same amount and get to the same exact velocity after the rebuild.

  2. #2
    Now we are going to remove the hammer. This is one time where you need to pay attention. Put your allen key into the hammer lug. Note where the handle is. Rotate it three exact and full turns. This should then allow it to slide out the back of the body. If not then rotate it another full turn. Remember how many turns you rotated it though. This is very important to get the timing right when you put it back in.

    In order for the hammer to slide out the back, the dark grey circle which is the bottom of the hammer lug should be up inside the lighter grey area which is the hammer.

    Once it is all out put the assembly together somewhere it won't get dirty.

    Now you are going to remove the valve. Undo this brass screw from under the body.

    It will look like this. Clean off the thread sealant so you can apply new when you re-install it.

    Now the valve will be able to slide out the back of the body. It may need a little encouragement. Be careful not to push on the sealing face of the valve with anything.

    Once it is out, clean it off and double check the o-rings are good. Keep the assembly together somewhere they won't get dirty.

    Now that is the gun fully diss-assembled and it is time to put it all back together in the new body!

  3. #3
    Start by putting the valve back into the body exactly the opposite of how it just came out. Spring first, then poppet, then valve. It makes it far easier if you align the valve locating hole with the holes on the bottom before you start sliding it in.

    I use a piece of sprinkler hose pipe to keep it aligned and push it forwards into place.

    Put clean loctite (I prefer 545 thread sealant for this) onto the valve screw and install it into place so it is just below flush with the bottom of the body.

    Next put the hammer, hammer spring and IVG back into the body. Make sure the hammer is clean and I recommend lubricating it with a paintball gun oil.

    Now make sure the hammer lug is aligned with the slot, and screw it back in EXACTLY the same number of turns you screwed it out earlier. Typically I screw it out three, and then back in three.

    Now making sure not to led the sled rotate on the pump rod, bring over the front block system and put the sled into the body slot.

    Align the front block with the front of the body.

    And then carefully get the front block screw started. Be careful to have everything aligned and to not cross thread the screw.

    As you tighten it down make sure the step that locates the front block is correctly aligned and then tighten down the screw so it is flush and the front block is tight against the body.

    Next slide the three way spool into the three way body.

    And align the grip frame with the body so you can see how it will all come together.

    Now connect the macro line hose. You can adjust it later, but it's good to get it into place now.

  4. #4
    Now bring the frame up and put the three way rod through into the trigger plate as the frame comes up to match with the lugs on the body.

    Align everything on the body lugs and hold it in place. Give everything a quick visual check over to make sure it is all good.

    Now install the rear frame screw.

    Push the trigger back and install the front frame screw.

    Now install the bolt.

    And there you have it! All done

    Pull the bolt back to check it catches on the hammer before airing it all up.

    Air it up and make sure the macro lines have sealed up. If not de-gas it, pull them out just slightly, and air it up again until they seat and seal correctly. Sometimes the macro on the Resurrection is a little short in my opinion and may need replacing with something longer to make sure it always seals perfectly.

    Go and play paintball with your new custom gun and tell everyone how awesome it is that you put it together yourself

    If you have any questions feel free to ask them

  5. #5
    I bet it took longer to take the pictures than to actually make the switch.
    Destroyer of Threads

  6. #6
    Insider new ion?'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Victoria, BC
    My thoughts as well. Being a bit of a cocker guy, it seemed all pretty basic stuff that I'd done more than once before.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by bunker_o_matic View Post
    I bet it took longer to take the pictures than to actually make the switch.
    By a long way. I also tried to make it real easy simple to follow steps so even someone new to the whole process could do it so there were a lot more steps and images than for someone who already knows their way around markers and cockers.

    Quote Originally Posted by new ion? View Post
    My thoughts as well. Being a bit of a cocker guy, it seemed all pretty basic stuff that I'd done more than once before.
    It's all very simple and basic. My drawn out step by step guide actually makes it look more involved and time consuming than it actually is.

  8. #8

    Do you have a Karnivor front block handy? Does it match the lines at the front of the FLE body any better?

  9. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Bringing thread up from the dead - noticed that these aren't in stock on the site - any plans on making any more of these bodies?

  10. #10
    Welcome to our forums

    There are no current plans for Empire Sniper/Resurrection Mid Blocked FLE bodies. You may still find one or two in stock with some of our dealers.

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