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Thread: Resurrection not . . resurrecting?

  1. #1

    Resurrection not . . resurrecting?


    Just picked up a brand new, in box Resurrection and am having a weird issue with it.

    When degassed, the trigger is perfectly fine. Pull slow, pull fast, pull hard, pull soft, the trigger always snaps back forward, no sweat.

    But gas it up, and every single time the trigger is pulled slowly, or pulled and held back, it usually stays back indefinitely, and has to be pulled again, sometimes multiple times, or else physically pulled forward, in order to return forward.

    There doesn't appear to be any mechanical binding involved, and when shooting fast there is no problem.

    However, I do detect the following issue with the three-way:

    When gassed up, there is a very faint mouse-whisper of a leak coming from the front vent hole. It is so quiet I had to wet a q-tip and put it over the hole to be sure I wasn't crazy.

    Then, when the trigger is pulled and held back, the leak stops in the front vent hole and moves to the rear vent hole. The leak from the rear vent hole is very significant (but inconsistent). Usually it starts small and then increases to a very loud, very significant leak, and the louder it leaks, the more the bolt will creep forward until (sometimes) it sort of pops, and then the trigger and bolt will drive home.

    There was quite a bit of grease that looked to have sprayed out around that vent hole. When the trigger is stuck back, and the hole leaking, I can hold the wet q-tip over the hole and (somewhat) plug the leak, whereupon the bolt/trigger will sort of jump back (to the rear). When unplugged, the leak increases and the bolt will creep forward. Plug the leak and back it jumps.

    Bear in mind I am just learning this platform, so pardon the ignorance.

    I read Simon's Pneumatics Leak FAQ, and while it indicates either the middle three-way o-ring or the ram, it doesn't indicate the bolt/trigger sticking in the rearward position.

    Any clues?

    EDIT: Just took apart the three-way and discovered, much to my chagrin, that the nylon set screws that are (presumably) there to lock the timing rod into the three-way shaft were not at all tightened from the factory, so the rod spins completely freely, and has spun some, but I don't know which way, or how much.

    Guess I just follow the manual and adjust it flush with front, and go from there?

    Thanks very kindly!

    EDIT AGAIN: Okay, changed out the middle three-way shaft o-ring, and leak persists, and trigger/bolt still refuse to go home when held back and let go, though still work fine when rapid firing.

    Is it possible that the LPR is set too low?
    Last edited by Menace; 03-09-2017 at 07:45 PM.

  2. #2
    It could be the LPR is too low, but that's unusual from the factory.

    The slight leak may mean the 3 way just needs a tiny adjustment, or it may mean a bad o-ring.

    The trigger sticking is common from the newer guns from GI which were built since they lost their engineers that gave a fuck (me), or their QC that knew what they were doing (he went to Valken)... It may be as simple as dirt in the frame causing it to bind, or the trigger spring pushing up at the back of the slot (why I spent thousands to make a spring guide for our frames) or it may be as bad as the frame slot being too tight (I've seen this on a couple of recent guns) since no-one at GI seems to be holding their manufacturing to the design specifications or tolerances that are needed to make parts fit and work as they were intended. It's one reason why there is such a big difference between a gun running our frame and the stock frame (we also mill out the frame slot to reduce contact surface area).

    To start I would drop the frame (be careful not to bend the timing rod), remove the frame internals, clean the slot and make sure nothing has any burrs, then rebuild it.

    Are you local to me? If so you can come here and I will show you what to check, but you would be doing the work yourself

    There is a good chance that our spring guide and trigger return spring kit will fix the trigger problem, but it may be at the expense of a slightly stronger trigger return (some people like that).

  3. #3
    Much appreciated, sir!

    Though sad to see the rumors about GI QC confirmed here.

    And most especially, sad to be the butt of the joke.

    As for the middle o-ring, changed it out, and while the rearward-stuck-position leak is not as bad now, it is still very much present, and nothing has changed in terms of function.

    Changed the LPR all over (and returned it to original position) and that too helped not at all.

    Your FAQ indicated a possible issue with the ram, so I guess I'll look there next.

    As for your frames, yes, yes, I know. You may recall we chatted at Polar Bears v. Penguins a few weeks back, and I've been thinking of going with one of your 86 frames and guts, though wanted to give stock a fair run just to get a feel for the platform. I've never owned a cocker before, and have only shot Nobody's, and that for half a day, so wanted to be sure any upgrades were made from a more experienced perspective.

    As for locality, I'm local indeed, and would be honored to visit and learn from you!

    My thanks again.

  4. #4
    I will try to stop in at Top Gun on Saturday if you are going and will have it with you.

  5. #5
    Thank you, sir!

    I do plan to be there, though please, for the sake of all that is good and just, don't make the trip on my account alone.


  6. #6
    Once more, my thanks to you, sir!

    She's up and running nicely now.

    And so that it may be stated publicly and explicitly, Simon is the man.

    The end.

  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Greenville SC
    I picked up a ressy this weekend and it is having the same issue (trigger sticking back). I am no strangers to cockers (been shooting them since 90). Pulled the trigger all apart and polished everything. Put it back together and it is still binding. After watching your video I see that the PO never reinstalled the spring guide for the return spring. I assume this is what is causing my issue. In my haste I also cut 1 coil from my sear which lightened the pull substantially. Now I found the real culprit and I need a new sear spring. I see your site is out of stock...I want to order the sear spring (let me know if you are really out of stock)along with the trigger return set (does this include the guide?).. Sorry to post this here but I dont use facebook and I cant PM you..
    Last edited by SC_Thumper; 04-29-2018 at 08:22 AM.

  8. #8
    The quality control from Empire on the Ressurection can be said like this. With Simon and after Simon. It boggles the mind of how a company can have a selling gun, yet totally turn its nose at it and not only let it die but also have no clue as to how to keep it in proper working order.

  9. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Greenville SC
    The parts came today and of course I had to put it all together and see whats what. With a fresh sear spring ( thanks to inception customer service) and the longest return spring installed I can still get the trigger to stick if I ride the trigger back and hold it against the back for a few sec. Not sure why I would ever do this in game. With the sear out, the trigger plate is free with no discernible friction. When I put the sear back in with the stock spring, it wants to bind on top of the ramp of the trigger plate. If I put the shortened trigger spring I cannot get the trigger to stick at all. I can rock the trigger and I am not getting any lug slip so I think this is fixed as far as I can tell... and the trigger is fine for my tastes.

    My next question is since I have no idea how many cases have been through this ressy should I be concerned the trigger plate is worn to cause that much binding with the stock length spring? Or am I missing something obvious.

  10. #10
    Ask 100 people how to set up a cocker/ressurection and you'll get 99 different answers (the 100th, would be taught by one the hundred ). The key is how it feelstshoots in your hands. If you are happy with how it is shooting with those springs, then be blessed. I know i have gotten 3 people to literally, test fire my ressie and proceed to buy one to build. Some in meer minutes of shooting the thing. Then they complain that they can't get theirs to shoot the same as mine!

    Now, as you have taken apart the trigger, did you see any decernable wear on the frame and/or trigger plate? Springs will wear out, orings loose shape and fail to seal. If the plate is worn and there are no places where it could physically catch or hang on, then being used would mean it should move freer (you remove material when using it, not putting it in). The spring can change the feel, the movement, everything with the inaction of the trigger and the gun. Replace the spring and you will literally change the feel of everything.

    If you are that worried about binding, then take some sandpaper to the frame. I would put black sharpie on the plate, install on the gun, and then "fire it" a dozen times. If there are high spots touching the plate, the movement will take the sharpie off, and you can address those spots.

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