Well, nothing printed as a success was showable quite yet, and the failures are in a pile on the floor of the house. Short of one gear that printed perfect. It is kinda awesome. I guess I can take a pic.
That looks a lot better. Whats the scale of those gears?Originally Posted by pbjosh
I tried popping up my pic of a scale drawing, but I was exceeding the file limit size - I think from my work machine. The small one is the size of a half dollar or so.
how is it working Josh?
Started Playing Paintball in 1986'
Owner of Instien's Paintball Supply. H'ville Mo.
J4 Torque Dealer, Deadlywind Also Valken, GI sports
It works quite good. I am surprised at how easy the Makerbot really is. Almost Plug and Play.
I found some lifting on long, thin parts, like printing the body. The accuracy is a bit off due to shrinkage. Small parts are spot on, but some long parts I might start printing with full fill to make sure they don't change or warp.
The Makerbot scaffolding is intense, and more then it needs to be. They don't have a high resolution program that is fast, and my high resolution parts have had a problem with setup, but I found I had the table a bit too high. I find that the medium resolution is fine for nearly all of my prints though. Orientation of the part for printing helps, the strength in a grip for eample, on the trigger guard, varies per angle.
I am about to start printing some last check parts here this week, I will try and post some pics.
Did you have any questions on it?
What is the max print size?
Started Playing Paintball in 1986'
Owner of Instien's Paintball Supply. H'ville Mo.
J4 Torque Dealer, Deadlywind Also Valken, GI sports
Raft those long, thin bits or look into some bed coatings (Cyanoacrylate, Kapton etc).
Still happy with it? I am considering getting one now...
Well, the Replicator 2x should be out, with the ABS. The PLA is surprisingly tough and I don't need anything more at this time. A heated board would solve most of my problems. I haven't had the need for 100 micron printing yet, though I might soon.
The only real issue is getting material to stick to the board in some cases, not in others. Again, a heated board would fix that, and some items I ues a raft. Makerware is STUPID eas to use. Printing items like triggers and such have turned out, with a bit of sanding, to be really nice. A lot of the automatic scaffolding and related is good, but I found I just made my own for some parts, like triggerguard overhangs. It will print a surprisingly long distance without a scaffold though.
Right now I have a gun printed with filled chambers (for support) with a 2 layer 'shell' and 10% fill. The eye covers popped in, the feedneck snapped right on, the foregrip and grip and body all slid together with a bit of force and the trigger with a tad sanding slid right in. It is 90% of the gun and I can hold it to see and feel every point.
I have to say from this side of it, it was a very worthy purchase.
And for a direct answer: Not just happy - ecstatic. Still super cool.
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