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Thread: Rapid Prototype machine: Buying one very soon. Input wanted.

  1. #11
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    I don't think I am going to be 'playing' with PLA much - mostly just checking fit and such before having something machined, plus some molds for rubber bits. The ability to actually hold the gun in hand, put it to perspective is really important nowadays, when I spend to much time with it in my head or in CAD. I tend to shave down to nothing some bits, where the difference wouldn't be a pain to do, or wouldn't be noticeable. Sometimes you just have to see a passageway or thread spacing to know if it will work or be the right size. Proportion gets a bit out of wack while deep in CAD. When I get a bit more experience I will go with a ABS unit, and I am ready for some more usable to play parts (not sure what though... foregrips?) and the SeemeCNC Rostack has such a great build area, though a DLP printer might be out then anyways that can do what I am looking for.

    I did see the 'PLA' torture test Hoss machine did, where they made a tooling head and cut plexi and aluminum with it in a CNC machine. And most places state the difference will be small. We will see. By the time I exceed the parameters of the Replicator I should be ready to take on something a bit more challenging.

  2. #12
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    Replicator 2 ordered and on its way.

    I am kind of laughing a bit to myself, wickedly.

  3. #13
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    Cool, you'll still probably be able to run ABS btw (modify the bed and crank up the temp on the extruder).

  4. #14
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    I was thinking that - though Makerbot said the PLA they have only shrinks about .002% so I might have to be picky even with the PLA.

    So, the bed might be an easy and needed adaption, shoot a slick upgrade even. I had a question on that - the bed, how long does it need to be warm? Could I just heat it up, put it in, level it and go from there? Or does it need to be on the entire time?

    The Replicator 2x will run ABS and dual extruders and the rest, plus the heated table. I might upgrade then and sell this one to cover it. I did try out the software, stupid easy so far. The auto-supports and bridging look simple, I haven't done the fill adjustments yet.

  5. #15
    .002%?? Wow.

    Compensating for shrink in the X, Y and Z axis was always an issue with the SLS machine when we had it in house.

    The only issue we saw when using FDM rapid prototyping and ABS parts was the shear strength. Sometimes you have to make a part in a strange orientation to get the strength you want. It's kind of why we went with the SLS option for most of what we do.

  6. #16
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    AFAIK the bed has to stay warm (I've never tried turning it off mid-print). The problem is ABS warping/curling up at the edges when it cools unevenly (cold bottom and hot top).
    I've heard of people successfully gluing their raft down with a thin layer of superglue on top of blue tape for cold ABS prints, never tried that either though.
    Have also heard of someone using an oven bag and heat over the whole thing to keep it toasty, though you're liable to damage the machine in doing so. Can't recall how well that worked.

  7. #17
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    I might have an extra .0 in there, (I think I am typing something, but then add a bit extra...) but still, .02% vs 2% in some ABS is a big deal. And that was from a sales guy, so take it with a grain. .2% might be correct - it is still decent.

    I would go with SLS, some of the new ones are really slick, and fairly cheap, using DLP tech along with picoprojector lasers. But they are not quite ready for market yet, expensive, or just small. For shear strength, yes, I would love it. But that really isn't the intent so much.

    I am not looking for more then the fit and finish, checking out a few things. I just can't afford the money or time to machine everything when I just want to hold it and comprehend it. I will be doing whole guns, no so much for testing, but just to try and 'feel' it right. You know, when you look at something, in hand, and realize if you just adjusted the screw by a bit it would catch less... maybe a bigger radius on the front grip, or that you just want a few less threads on a part? That type of stuff. And truthfully, non paintball ideas keep me busy also. Hard to admit.

    Hmm...well, a heated plate shouldn't be hard at all. But it doesn't make since to need to keep the tray heated all the time. Just a while, till you are up a quarter inch or so. If you had something that had enough mass it should cool at a decent point? Normally there is a fan there anyways. Unless you need it to still stick or something? I can see that - the part cooling too much and sliding. But then, blue tape or related. Well, I can experiment!

  8. #18
    I was always spoiled in college as I had access to a stratasys fdm machine along with a week in new orleans at siggraph helping run the studio with 3d scanners, highend 3d printers and a lot of other cool toys...





    Custom Project cocker that I printed while I was there...




    I really want to get my hands on an Objet Printer so I can do multiple materials in the same build...3d printed rubber grips with clear window anyone lol
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #19
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    pote - That is exactly the type of stuff I want to do! Good work. Build it, put it together, check out fit, check out look, noodle on parts you can feel. The grip might look good on the computer, but it might feel like crap in your hand, or a board might fit, but it goes in really weird and might jam.

    The Objet stuff, and the laser sintering stuff... kinda crazy awesome.

  10. #20
    It's great being able to get a feel for the layout and ergonomics of a gun before taking the time to machine one. It can be a huge time and $$$ saver.

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