Question about the design of the Axe compared to the Mini.

[minimag03]

I owned one of the first Minis released in 2006 and had it since then. I recently traded it and got a brand new Axe. I'm sad to say the fit-and-finish is not nearly a nice as my old Mini, but that's not what I'm making this thread about. My question is about the male air transfer tube. The Minis is hollow all the way through, but the Axes tube has an aluminum piston in it. What's the purpose of this piston? Helping efficiency by cutting off the air source from the 'dump chamber' when firing?

[Simon]

That piston automatically locks the valve into place in the gun when it is aired up. It stops you accidentally taking the bolt system out of the gun and smacking yourself in the face.

I implemented it because with the quick strip system it's very easy to take the bolt out now and many people would do it without thinking about shutting the air off.

It makes no difference to performance at all.

[Simon]

Damnit, need a facepalm emoticon for the site...

[theboss33]

Damnit, need a facepalm emoticon for the site...

[Lumberjack]

That reminds me of the time a guy dry fired his Mini with his finger in the breech and the bolt stuck forward. It was amusing watching him frantically try to remove his tank with his free hand. Him being 6'7" and lanky added to the awkward position he put himself in.

[minimag03]

Simon, I have another question about my new Axe. Remember when I said the fit and finish of the gun wasn't up to par with my V1 Mini? Well the main problem is in the foregrip. Originally there was a substantial gap between the top of the foregrip and the body, exposing the board connection. This was because the top of my foregip wasn't milled straight across the top, but slanting down toward the front. I tried disassembling and reassembling everything in every order with no luck. Kee sent me a new foregrip and this one is still not milled straight across the top. It touches the back and front of the body, but there is still a gap in the middle. It's almost milled like a "V". The gap isn't as big now, but it's still present and still large enough that paint could easily get inside on the board connection. What's the deal with this? Are none of the stock foregrips milled straight and across the top so they can sit flush with the body? Needless to say, I'm shocked at the quality control because my body's cosmetic milling also has a defect in it. My V1 Mini fit together perfectly with no gaps or milling errors.

Also, the stock grease that came with my gun was vaseline. Does this mean my regulator is also 'lubed' with vaseline? I thought the stock lube was Dow33.

[Simon]

Simon, I have another question about my new Axe. Remember when I said the fit and finish of the gun wasn't up to par with my V1 Mini? Well the main problem is in the foregrip. Originally there was a substantial gap between the top of the foregrip and the body, exposing the board connection. This was because the top of my foregip wasn't milled straight across the top, but slanting down toward the front. I tried disassembling and reassembling everything in every order with no luck. Kee sent me a new foregrip and this one is still not milled straight across the top. It touches the back and front of the body, but there is still a gap in the middle. It's almost milled like a "V". The gap isn't as big now, but it's still present and still large enough that paint could easily get inside on the board connection. What's the deal with this? Are none of the stock foregrips milled straight and across the top so they can sit flush with the body? Needless to say, I'm shocked at the quality control because my body's cosmetic milling also has a defect in it. My V1 Mini fit together perfectly with no gaps or milling errors.

Also, the stock grease that came with my gun was vaseline. Does this mean my regulator is also 'lubed' with vaseline? I thought the stock lube was Dow33.

The stock grease is not vaseline, it may look like it, but it isn't. It's more like a "superlube". We still recommend dow 33 if you run out and are looking to buy grease though.

The top of your foregrip certainly isn't how it should be. Can you take a picture for me?

Sometimes the location of how it fits can be adjusted slightly by loosening the frame screws and the foregrip screws and adjusting it until everything goes flush. Then tighten the foregrip screws, lower one first, then the upper, and then the frame screws.

If you have tried more than one foregrip and they both sit at an angle it sounds more like the front of the frame is bent. Did you buy the gun new or used? I have seen a very hard and heavy dive onto the foregrip to bend the front of the frame back causing the issue you describe.

I'll double check with a brand new gun here and take a look at the gap.

[minimag03]

I bought my gun brand new. I tried loosening the screws and getting it to fit, but no luck. That was the first thing the tech asked when I told him about my problem. Here is a picture of the gap...



The new foregrip is the similar, but comes back up and touches the body towards the front of the foregrip. So imagine that gap in the middle, kinda like the shape of a 'V'. The these foregrips are placed on a flat surface the gaps are still visable. That's what lead me to believe the problem might be the foregrips. I figured I would come here and ask if this is super common before I ask them to send me another foregrip.

Also, what size/material are the reg piston orings? I've seen bother buna and urethane orings for it and don't know which to order or id there is a difference between them?

[Simon]

That is definitely not right, and not common. Do you have a square you can use to check the fore grips and then the frame to the body.

It is similar to when I have seen a bent frame. I would suggest sending in the whole gun to get checked over not just getting a new fore grip again.

I'll post up the reg o-rings once I get to work.

[Simon]

Axe Relay part descriptions and SKU's here http://simonized.com/showthread.php?...=4797#post4797