karnivor cocking issues

[noclue119]

You can actually check without air.

First either fully extend or fully retract the ram shaft. Press your finger over the barb to form a tight seal. Pull/push on the Ram. It should want to extend/retract all the way back to the original position.

Test with both barbs and both extending and retract. If it doesn't retract/extend all the way your ram isn't forming a perfect seal.

[new ion?]

Unfortunately that's not entirely true. Friction won't allow it to return to exactly the same place.

[noclue119]

Unfortunately that's not entirely true. Friction won't allow it to return to exactly the same place.

It should close if you have a leak it will just stay in the last position

[new ion?]

How possible is it that the solenoid is going/has gone? I tried a different ram and lpr (both off my pro stock) and it still does it. When I hit the tester button on the cocking noid, it works just fine, but not via power. And yes, I upped the LPR and CON time to be sure.

And today at the field, it wouldn't cock for a while, then seemed to cock fine... Just wouldn't fire full velocity. (I'm thinking the HPR pressure was too high causing insufficient valve lift... I could be wrong though)

Though again weird, once cocked training mode works totally fine.

Another lovely thing I found, the cocking noid housing doesn't have any threads left and was just loctited into place.

[Nobody]

if you changed the ram and the LPR, then its either the HPR(sticking or having horrible creep) or the noid needs to be lubed or replaced. process of elimination.

[jonotwist]

the noid housing doing that can happen. a threaded hole and a setscrew can fix that.
also
chk to make sure the hammer lug you have is square,
Ive had soooooooo many e cockers tech that had an issue of the sear not catching due to the lug round.

[pbjosh]

I did have mech guns do exactly that, so before you tear into the solenoids look at the rest of the system. Shoot, look at the cocking rod spacing, hammer lug, etc. Those can do it also.

Have any video of the action, might ring the right bells to the problem.

[new ion?]

if you changed the ram and the LPR, then its either the HPR(sticking or having horrible creep) or the noid needs to be lubed or replaced. process of elimination.

The LPR I replaced it with is just the 'tickler' copy they used on the 04 prostock that uses an allen bolt to adjust the pressure instead of a milled cap, but it had never failed me on my mech's

the noid housing doing that can happen. a threaded hole and a setscrew can fix that.
also
chk to make sure the hammer lug you have is square,
Ive had soooooooo many e cockers tech that had an issue of the sear not catching due to the lug round.

It's definitely squared off.

I did have mech guns do exactly that, so before you tear into the solenoids look at the rest of the system. Shoot, look at the cocking rod spacing, hammer lug, etc. Those can do it also.

Have any video of the action, might ring the right bells to the problem.

I'll grab some video! Cocking rod spacing unfortunately isn't the easiest to adjust any farther (Stupid ICS..). Hammer lug releases half way thru the clapper's travel.

Video might be a bit as I have a couple assignments I have to do... and still working on that MQ model...

[pbjosh]

Okay, I KNEW this rang a bell!!!

I had it on the raceguns, with a dye cocker and few others. The culprit was...

The valve spring.

Yup.

The reason is a starved LPR on the full shot, which would not allow it to cock that shot, then it would have a full valve chamber and it would cock the next shot.

It sounds stupid, but part of it is the Tickler reg, but most of it is the valve spring/Hammer spring. The Tickler just affects one part of it.

I had to turn the delay for the sear drop solenoid down on those guns because the valve would drain the LPR. This would result in a bolt stick arrangement like in the Impulse, for the same reason - a starved solenoid. I went from a suction of about 7-8ms as my normal setting for the solenoid and turned it to 5ms to compensate for the stupid light valve spring, and that would stop it until I was able to take out the valve and put in a heavier valve spring and make sure the length of the hammer spring was not too long (which would hold the valve spring open if it was.)

In the DYE/Shocktech etc, they just sucked down a bunch of air, because they had a large enough LPR to have the volume to survive the valve dump. In the case of the Tickler, due to the low volume it wouldn't immediately re-cock on that shot, but it would on the next cycle when the valve chamber had a chance to recover enough pressure to cycle the ram.

SO: Let me guess - light valve spring? Or heavy long of a hammer spring? When you air up the gun you have to make sure the hammer is cocked, right, or it leaks bad?

No?

Let me know - that one was an old pisser to figure out.

[new ion?]

Compared with one out of my Prostock - valve spring seems lighter. Oddly enough, also shorter.

edit - swapped the prostock spring in - it's fine until high ROF... then it's still not cocking.

Thinking I'm going to swap the PS valve in too - shouldn't be any different but you never know.

edit - I think the HPR needs to be rebuilt...

but... I THINK IT'S FINALLY WORKING! I turned up the HPR more (it sounds really f'n loud atm... Need to Chrono. weird is that at the field we had it maxed and it didn't help), replaced the Valve with the brass one from one of my Prostocks (my halfblock in progress that I fubar'd) and it seems to be cycling and cocking no matter how hard I lay on the trigger.

I bet my roommates will finally be happy...

Thanks for all the help!