Reply With QuoteThere was a guy who multicammed his Axe on PBN, I think there's a picture in the Axe forum somewhere. It looks REALLY good.
I'd appreciate your eye for anodizing and design giving some input.
I want something "techy" but not over the top. I think the top of the 'S' logo should contrast, maybe a polish finish compared to matte everywhere else? Or maybe contrast with the colour.
I am thinking a subtle fade from front to back, but can't decide on colours. Lately I play more in the woods than anywhere else so was thinking Multicam colours, but I am not sure if that would work.
Oh, and I am colour blind.
There was a guy who multicammed his Axe on PBN, I think there's a picture in the Axe forum somewhere. It looks REALLY good.
You're joking right? I work with a guy who is and in some situations in CAD he has to ask me what color something is because it looks different for him. He can't tell shades, but used to be able to I think since he knows what it looks like to him.Originally Posted by Simon
Oh, and I am colour blind.
What are you going with for wall thickness minimums in the ASA?
And... you are going to confuse people if you don't drop the 'u' when you are a full blown American. I guess it just depends on how cheeky you are.
Nope deadly serious. Was diagnosed at about 4 years old and it's not really stopped me doing too much.
I do have issues with shades, which is why for some reason many parts on my CAD screen end up being pink. I can tell shades of pink better than many other colours on my CAD system. It gives my wife lots of opportunities to make fun of me because usually I hate pink... She comes over, looks at what I am doing and says "It's very pink..."
Minimum wall thickness for the ASA is 0.05" but most of it is 0.1" or more.
I will always have an English accent, and speak with 'U' and 'I' in my words as I please, thank you very much.
Hey Simon, I'm considering getting an axe and having it milled like the old angel LCD feather lites. How much weight did your drop to per the standard way to measure a gun (barrel, battery) ?
You can add up the weight saving from each of the pictures above and then add in the savings from the frame as per the following pictures to get the total weight removed.
I couldn't quite figure it out because I'm not sure what unit of measure the body and valve are in, but the frame is in oz. What I did find is that your milled body and valve are roughly 42% lighter then stock? Would you say its possible to break the 2lb mark with a full milled body, valve, asa, and frame? I think I would be in love if that where the case.
The other parts are in grams.
Can't remember what a stock gun weighs but I think it would be possible to make the gun under 2lb's if that was the goal.
I believe mike at techpb weighed it at 2lbs 4 oz with barrel and battery.
Doing quick math, with YOUR milling : you shaved 4.2 oz. And that's without touching the chubby little asa.
I'm gonna start looking for an axe.
I got 4.3oz off, including the ASA, but that doesn't include the metal I machined off the foregrip. Which is at least .2 oz
If it were an exercise in the lightest Axe possible there is more I could machine off.
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