We need to make this... Brutus Rotary Mag fed pistol!

[ccmachinist]

I already took my TPX apart a while back. The valve almost looks like our reg top inside. They are just moving air/gas from one side to the other side. The design is really cool. The 40mm paintball grenades kind of have the same set up.

I made a barrel for one of those 40mm shells and it shot a FS about 130 yards using propane. Just the gas. no ignition. It was interesting. Big volume though.


I was thinking about putting the FN mag. on the front of my SR1. It would look kind of steampunk or Borderland but it would work.We get 30 plus shots with a 12 gram. So I could go thru 2 mags real easy. The valve system works really well. The last shot is about 260 and there is no shoot down so it's really hard to tell when your last shot is.

[Nobody]

i'm just spitballing here...

taking the pic of the TPX, and the photochop, the consensus of having the 12gram in the grip(or maybe 2?, or even a better reg to handle the increases for efficiency or flow) and retaining the TPX bolt system, how about taking the co2 piercing mechanism and totally removing the brass looking line, and rotating it 90* to the vertical so that its now in the grip. you can attach the peirce mechanism right in front of the TPX reg, giving the necessary area for the rotatory mag, getting the shortest, squat little gun since the M1942 Liberator...

now, is the trigger of a TPX mechanical? is there a way move it along so that the ergonomics could be better?

also, not knowing the FN303 or the mag, what about having the barrel, instead of the "whoosh" or a stub, you work an ugly 6+" freak bored barrel. a Tip 98 barrel but freak'd, for example. it would give better life to all those unused .690+ inserts AND would give better life for shooting regular paint out of it. plus, i love seeing tiny little guns with huge barrels, like in Johnny Dangerously, "its a 88Magnum. I use it to shoot though schools."

[BigEvil]

This forum is going to cost me a lot of money I see...

[skibbo]

i'm just spitballing here...

taking the pic of the TPX, and the photochop, the consensus of having the 12gram in the grip(or maybe 2?, or even a better reg to handle the increases for efficiency or flow) and retaining the TPX bolt system, how about taking the co2 piercing mechanism and totally removing the brass looking line, and rotating it 90* to the vertical so that its now in the grip. you can attach the peirce mechanism right in front of the TPX reg, giving the necessary area for the rotatory mag, getting the shortest, squat little gun since the M1942 Liberator...

now, is the trigger of a TPX mechanical? is there a way move it along so that the ergonomics could be better?

also, not knowing the FN303 or the mag, what about having the barrel, instead of the "whoosh" or a stub, you work an ugly 6+" freak bored barrel. a Tip 98 barrel but freak'd, for example. it would give better life to all those unused .690+ inserts AND would give better life for shooting regular paint out of it. plus, i love seeing tiny little guns with huge barrels, like in Johnny Dangerously, "its a 88Magnum. I use it to shoot though schools."

The Co2 Pierce could be moved almost wherever we wanted I think. I'd have to look but it seems like we could source a straight fitting instead of that rear 90* one.
The trigger is a little bit more of a pain. WHen you pull the trigger it pushes a valve in the silver C02 piercing mechanism to allow gas to come through and fire the marker. We'd have to figure out a way to allow the trigger to still do that when the trigger is moved. Something like a Sheridan sear where it moves down when the trigger is pulled should allow a repositioning of the pierce pin assy into the grip.

[FLounder]

I was thinking about putting the FN mag. on the front of my SR1. It would look kind of steampunk or Borderland but it would work.We get 30 plus shots with a 12 gram. So I could go thru 2 mags real easy. The valve system works really well. The last shot is about 260 and there is no shoot down so it's really hard to tell when your last shot is.

I have been sketching ideas for this for quite awhile now.

My idea involves a longer bolt for the SR1 to push through the mag into the barrel. The current set up has more than enough travel to clear the mag for removal. Still trying to sort out an automatic indexing system for the mag. It might just have to be ball and detent system and a manual advance. If I get some time I will try to put something in a presentable format and post it up here. Right now I am still in the "idea on a bar napkin" stage.

[ccmachinist]

I have been sketching ideas for this for quite awhile now.

My idea involves a longer bolt for the SR1 to push through the mag into the barrel. The current set up has more than enough travel to clear the mag for removal. Still trying to sort out an automatic indexing system for the mag. It might just have to be ball and detent system and a manual advance. If I get some time I will try to put something in a presentable format and post it up here. Right now I am still in the "idea on a bar napkin" stage.

This would be pretty simple.There has to be a breach (no shell sizers) made that screws in the front of the gun and that breach is machined to accept the FN mag and support a barrel. An extension is made that fits on the end of the bolt. Really just a tube. The now extended bolt pushes the FS into the barrel and the bolt locks just like it does in normal operation. Fire,retract bolt out of the magazine,magazine rotates. repeat 14 more times.

Simon,we need a drawing of the breach mechanism that holds the FN mag in place. The original design in the FN303 would work. Do you have that drawn up? Of course we will need it for every gun design that is going to use that mag. I haven't done it yet myself but sooner or later I'm going to have to draw it up.If you already have it drawn that would be nice.

[skibbo]

Drew this guy up while eating dinner (I don't have TipX CAD files so that's why I used paint). I tried to keep the spacing the same as the picture I basically traced (the internals one from a few posts back) but I have no idea how good the scale on my mag is/the placement of the mag. May need a custom bolt, but it could be possible to figure out a way to not need one.

Tried to keep the custom/partial custom parts to a minimum. Would have to look at the air line and see what could be done with the stock fittings to reduce machine time.



Also:
It now looks like the reg changed so that it's all one unit. That'll screw up our plans for rerouting the gas line.
New (Not sure if fitting can be removed easily)

[ccmachinist]

That looks great.

Don't worry about machine time at this point. Most small parts move really fast. small brass parts are a good thing. We run most of our small round brass parts un-attended.all day long.

Keep it simple when you can.

The most time consuming thing for us is making the program to run the parts. The better the programs the better the product.

Can the 12 gram be put directly to the reg? Like a pierce pin on the "IN" port on the reg. Is that little block on the side the in or out? or is the little nub on the end the in?

This project could become very real so draw it like you mean it.

My biggest problem with the SR1 was me. I didn't want to use AR furniture and I didn't want to use a 12 gram. But I must say it was probably the re-designed reg on the J12 that made the SR1 work really well.

So always keep an open mind.

[skibbo]

That looks great.

Don't worry about machine time at this point. Most small parts move really fast. small brass parts are a good thing. We run most of our small round brass parts un-attended.all day long.

Keep it simple when you can.

The most time consuming thing for us is making the program to run the parts. The better the programs the better the product.

Can the 12 gram be put directly to the reg? Like a pierce pin on the "IN" port on the reg. Is that little block on the side the in or out? or is the little nub on the end the in?

This project could become very real so draw it like you mean it.

My biggest problem with the SR1 was me. I didn't want to use AR furniture and I didn't want to use a 12 gram. But I must say it was probably the re-designed reg on the J12 that made the SR1 work really well.

So always keep an open mind.

I'm not 100 percent sure if the 12 gram could be put on the reg or not. The little block should be the in port. I believe the black block takes the place of the brass banjo style fitting in the older design. Not 100% sure what the nub is but I believe it's the reg adjustment cap (TA20023). The line would be easy to shorten, Tippmann has a shorter line as well (no idea on length but I think it would work judging from pictures.

I'm thinking about just going ahead and picking up a TPX at some point here soon. That way I'll have actual dimensions so verifying them before doing any sort of run should be straight forward.

Here's the exploded TPX diagram (.pdf here)which I've referenced a few times now.

Looks like I need to update the drawing, I didn't put in the regulator or the firing valve assembly. Looks like a direct in would be possible, since you really don't need the pierce pin mechanism except to pierce the 12 gram. Just run a CCI pierce pin assembly and I think that'd work much better. That way the first shot wouldn't be to only pierce the 12 gram.

TPX parts diagram.jpg

[ccmachinist]

Ok, this is the same one I have. This thing is so cool.

The air fitting is the "air in" The little hole in the reg is air in the valve. So say the reg stays in the position it is now which is in line with the valve as you see it. I think you could drill an air in hole for the pierce pin in the bottom of the reg. So now the 12 gram is in the grip and connects directly to the reg via pierce pin. This would get rid of the gas line on the side of the gun. You might be able to use the same trigger and actuator link. So think of your design as a TPX with the front cut off. And you are going to wrap the parts with your design. You may have to morph the design a little to accommodate the parts but it looks doable. And you get to adjust the reg from the back.

The firing valve is a great design. Its just a little pin that moves forward maybe .060 to let the air into another chamber.And when you let go of the trigger it recharges and resets the pin. Its very similar to the 40mm grenade paintball shooter in function.


I get about 20 shots with my TPX or what ever three mags hold. maybe 24 shots. The last few shots shoot down pretty good. I think thats the reg because it's pretty small. But once you have the design maybe the reg can be tweeked.