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Thread: We need to make this... Brutus Rotary Mag fed pistol!

  1. #41
    CAD Monkey skibbo's Avatar
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    I woke up this morning and had an idea. If we could source a small diameter clapper style solenoid and board (like below but smaller 'solenoid' and non attached microswitch)



    There would be an option to have burst/capped full auto. Wouldn't necessarily be needed with only 15 rounds but I think it would be fun. The clapper would go right behind the firing valve (if there's room, I'm not 100% on it's placement) with just a simple microswitch wired to the board. The grip frame should have enough room for everything plus a 9V battery.

    Honestly, you wouldn't need anything complicated on the board either. Could just cap everything out of the box at 5-10 bps (10 would be overkill for a pistol w/15 rounds but oh well) and have semi, 3 round burst, and maybe full auto (although with the small mag size it'd be done in a second in a half capped at 10).

    I figure it'd be awesome to be running around with one on burst. To my knowledge it would be the only mag fed pistol that would be able to do this.

    I also see no reason why the regulator couldn't be moved to another position in the grip, possibly even vertically if needed. We'd have to figure out the pierce pin then (couldn't be tapped straight in, but there's options)

    I'll re-draw a better picture of the clapper after work but there's the basic idea:
    Team Akkadian Paintball Squad

    B.S. Mechanical Engineering UW-Platteville 2012

    Quote Originally Posted by neftaly
    Simon Stevens said that will be totally fine and nothing bad could ever happen. Ever.

  2. #42
    If we go with senario dreams tboard we could go smaller... or a no board semi only dumb electro

  3. #43
    So many awesome posts! Where to begin... one post at a time I guess.

    Quote Originally Posted by skibbo View Post
    Thanks for the files. I'll see what more work I could get done. Figuring out the barrel end is the main thing. I agree about using OTR parts vs. custom to make it more viable. The frame will be different than the original image for sure, I'll see what the stock mini frame would look like and how it'd match up with the mags.
    Make it cocker threads and allow anyone to put whatever they like on it. The front will need to be longer, but we can deal with that.

    If we use TiPX parts and make it clam shell then we can machine or print the shell halves. This is easier because it's how the TiPX parts were designed to be used.

  4. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by BTAutoMag View Post
    What about no bolt and go NOVA style?

    The round is already IN a chamber. It just need a little bit of a clamping action to seal it...

    Just sayin
    Cool concept, but lots of work to make such a design, and you can't seal individual rounds in the FN303 mag unfortunately.

  5. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by skibbo View Post
    Did a bit more. Needs work to get it to a good looking state, but the idea is there I think. Needs work with all the electrical components so I'm sure it'll change a good amount.
    Attachment 417Attachment 418



    Awesome work

  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by ccmachinist View Post
    I was thinking about putting the FN mag. on the front of my SR1. It would look kind of steampunk or Borderland but it would work.We get 30 plus shots with a 12 gram. So I could go thru 2 mags real easy. The valve system works really well. The last shot is about 260 and there is no shoot down so it's really hard to tell when your last shot is.
    You'd likely upset some of the realism guys, but it sounds like a very functional product.

  7. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by skibbo View Post
    The Co2 Pierce could be moved almost wherever we wanted I think. I'd have to look but it seems like we could source a straight fitting instead of that rear 90* one.
    The trigger is a little bit more of a pain. WHen you pull the trigger it pushes a valve in the silver C02 piercing mechanism to allow gas to come through and fire the marker. We'd have to figure out a way to allow the trigger to still do that when the trigger is moved. Something like a Sheridan sear where it moves down when the trigger is pulled should allow a repositioning of the pierce pin assy into the grip.

  8. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by FLounder View Post
    I have been sketching ideas for this for quite awhile now.

    My idea involves a longer bolt for the SR1 to push through the mag into the barrel. The current set up has more than enough travel to clear the mag for removal. Still trying to sort out an automatic indexing system for the mag. It might just have to be ball and detent system and a manual advance. If I get some time I will try to put something in a presentable format and post it up here. Right now I am still in the "idea on a bar napkin" stage.
    The FN303 mag is sprung loaded so it auto indexes

  9. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by skibbo View Post
    Drew this guy up while eating dinner (I don't have TipX CAD files so that's why I used paint). I tried to keep the spacing the same as the picture I basically traced (the internals one from a few posts back) but I have no idea how good the scale on my mag is/the placement of the mag. May need a custom bolt, but it could be possible to figure out a way to not need one.

    Tried to keep the custom/partial custom parts to a minimum. Would have to look at the air line and see what could be done with the stock fittings to reduce machine time.



    Also:
    It now looks like the reg changed so that it's all one unit. That'll screw up our plans for rerouting the gas line.
    New (Not sure if fitting can be removed easily)
    Love it! This is what I had in my mind when the idea of the TiPX parts came up...

  10. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by ccmachinist View Post
    The most time consuming thing for us is making the program to run the parts. The better the programs the better the product.
    Same problem I run into. Even worse when I am just one person currently!

    Quote Originally Posted by ccmachinist View Post
    Can the 12 gram be put directly to the reg? Like a pierce pin on the "IN" port on the reg. Is that little block on the side the in or out? or is the little nub on the end the in?
    Agree. We don't need the pull to activate the 12g feature. Just have a screw in knob to pierce it and be happy.

    Quote Originally Posted by ccmachinist View Post
    My biggest problem with the SR1 was me. I didn't want to use AR furniture and I didn't want to use a 12 gram. But I must say it was probably the re-designed reg on the J12 that made the SR1 work really well.
    I love the way it took the AR furniture. I got to try out George's over here in NJ and it was very cool!

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